makeup artist san francisco
Natural Makeup Applications
San Francisco Makeup photo shoot
In most cases Less Is More!
It’s not how much makeup you apply, it’s the technique in which you apply it. One thing I’ve learned as a makeup artist is that a little makeup can go a long way.
Apply your everyday makeup to look more natural.
Always apply your face moisturizer/primer and then conceal your blemishes and discolored areas.
Lightly apply a face powder to then set your concealer.
This makeup technique is a more natural approach compared to applying your face foundation to the whole face.
For fuller coverage, apply a tinted moisturizer before you apply your concealer.
You can also combine your daily face moisturizer and your foundation for a lighter texture.
Light Tone Makeup Application
Light tone makeup san francisco
Light tone makeup is not a technique one would use for everyday makeup application. However, using lighter tones can be subtly effective in photographic work, creating a clean but experimental look.
The technique I used on this particular model involved toning down her full face including her brows.
This can be done by applying a light based shade over the brows and keeping the cheeks light but still vibrant with color.
On this occasion, we wanted her lips to particularly stand out and this was achieved by using a heavy duty gloss lips makeup application.
Create the look with makeup textures
In this image shown on the left, I applied black floral lace to the side of the model’s face.
As the lace was such a focal point, my next job was to complete the look by balancing the lace with the colors used in my makeup application.
Dark eye makeup weighed out the color and fullness of the lace while red glossy lips gave the image a boost of color and energy. As a makeup artist, it’s always fun to experiment with different textures and colors.
Wedding Makeup
Welcome Bride To Be…
So your special day is coming up?
As a makeup artist, I love working closely with brides to ensure they feel absolutely stunning on their wedding day.
I like to make my brides feel comfortable and content during our pampering session and walk away feeling fresh and beautiful, ready to embrace the day!
Trials are recommended so that the bride and I can communicate as to how they would like their makeup applied on the wedding day.
Ideas can be passed round and I can get to know the bride’s features and the best way to compliment the bride, her style and personality.
Brides are more than welcome to bring samples of dresses or images that provide a better understanding of the entire look on the day. The idea is to work as best as we can together, to ensure you feel like the beautiful bride you are.
I pride myself on my elegant style of bridal and wedding makeup applications and I ensure my applications are long lasting and photographic all day.
Thanks for Visiting!
- Chelsea
Phone: (650) 575-8986
email: chelseamakeup@gmail.com
blog: Willow & Frank
Raw Makeup Artist Techniques
The works of Andrew Dunbar- Renown Australian Photographer.
In the image displayed, we wanted the neck piece to be the main feature in the photo.
However, we also wanted the model equally drawing the viewers attention.
I feel we were very successful in achieving this look.
When applying makeup to a model where a product is advertised, the model should attract attention to the product but never overpower it.
On this occasion, I applied little makeup to keep the face natural.
Shades of shimmer were applied to the model’s chest to highlight the neck piece.
I also wanted the model to look raw and powerful, a simple application technique was effective and presented the neck piece suitably.
Lighting and Makeup
Makeup artists work always looks best under natural lighting
Natural lighting is a makeup artists best friend, as it keeps things looking natural and at their best.
If natural light is not an option, a fluorescent bulb will do the trick.
As a makeup artist, when working with a photographer it is important to discuss what lighting strategies will be used.
Different lighting techniques can change the look of makeup dramatically.
Having knowledge on the style of lighting also helps when applying highlights and contouring.
Luscious Lips
Makeup artist techniques for liscious lips
There are simple lipstick makeup applications that can balance out imperfections and help create symmetry for more luscious lips.
Thin Lips: Use lighter lip colors, dark colors will make thin lips look thinner.
Apply a highlight just above the bow of the lip and and also at the center of the bottom lip. This will give the illusion of fuller lips.
Uneven Lips: Use a lip liner to balance out the lip shape. Apply a lipstick rather than a gloss because gloss draws attention to the natural lip line but not the newly drawn one.
Upper Thin Lip: To make the top lip appear bigger, apply more lipstick to the bottom lip and extra gloss on the top lip. You can also apply a highlight to the top lip’s bow.
Full Lips: Can be made smaller by using darker colors and avoiding high gloss.
Clients
San Francisco Makeup Artist photographer and client list
Amy Sarabi (‘Project Runway’ Season 7)
Banana Republic
Ralph Lauren
Tigerlily Swimwear
944 Magazine
Collective Magazine
Alexandria von Bromssen
Oakland Magazine
Chaos Magazine
SA Life Magazine
Next Generation
Mary Frances Accessories
Made In: Liberia
Pillsbury & Levinson
Washington hospital
Makeup and Skin Care
A natural, light makeup application.
Flawless Skin = Flawless Makeup!
Spend more time caring for your skin and less time applying makeup.
Cleanser: Removes excess oil and dirt from the skin and is essential for preparing a makeup base.
Cream – for dry skin
Lotion – suitable for most skin types
Foam – oily or combination skin types
Gel – suitable for most skin types
Toner: Removes traces of cleanser, refreshes and refines the texture of the skin.
Moisturizer: Moisturizers helps protect the top layer of the skin (epidermis), retains moisture and prepares the skin for makeup.
Cream – for dry skins, or as a nighttime treatment
Lotion – suitable for most skin types, use as a daytime base under foundation
Oil Free – use on oily or combination skin types
Eye Cream: The skin around the eye is very delicate and also the driest part of the face, which shows aging. Using specialist products is beneficial for softening and hydrating the eye area.
Exfoliates: Helps to remove dead skin cells, polishing the skin and making it more receptive to moisturizers and foundations.
Skin Primer: Creates a soft invisible layer to smooth out the skin before applying foundation and makeup. Ideal for open pores.
Sunscreen: An essential product and the only skincare product that protects the skin from premature aging. Apply everyday under makeup.
Perfect Brows and Eye Makeup
Makeup for eyes and brows
To create the perfect brow, face shape and features need to be considered.
Eyebrows frame the eyes and can influence the overall expression on the face.
For longer faces, try a straighter brow with a soft arch.
Rounder Faces, higher arches create a more slender look.
Those who have smaller features, a thinner brow looks best.
A fuller brow compliments stronger features.
It is also important, when applying eyebrow makeup to match your natural eyebrow color and also compliment your hair color.
Often two or more colors can be used for a more realistic effect.
Applying shadow in place of pencil also creates a softer look.
Makeup for Asian Skin Tones & Features
Makeup artist San Francisco
Foundation
Experiment with a number of colors for a complimenting shade. For yellow undertones try mixing beige, golden and pink base foundations.
Concealer:
Add a small amount of pink into your concealer to even out brownish areas.
Face Powder:
A translucent powder is effective, however for best results combine with a tinted powder, such as a violet, coral or pink.
Cheeks:
Emphasize cheekbones by applying blush makeup high on the cheek apples.
Eyes:
Create depth by using a darker color to shade a crease into the eye socket and highlight the lid area. Line the top lash line and outer bottom lash line, curl lashes to open the eye.
Spring Makeup Trends
Professional makeup services in San Francisco bay area
Spring is here so add a splash of color!
Look #1
This season brings bold lips in orange red shades, glossy, creamy or matte.
Apply a lip liner that matches your natural lip color then apply the lipstick with a brush.
Compliment bold lips with neutral shades on the eyes.
Look #2
Pastel Eye Shadows are back!
Green, pink, lavender, light blue and turquoise are all the go this season. Go easy with the lips, compliment bright eyes with nude lips and a pinch of peachy or pink shades for the cheeks.
Add a little mascara to define lashes.
Color Correct Makeup
Choosing the right colors for your makeup
Concealer can be used not only to cover blemishes, but to also even out skin discoloration. Particularly around the eye area, blue or purple tones are common.
To conceal a bluish area, apply a concealer with an orange tone, lighter than the foundation color, this will counteract the blue. For purple shades, apply a yellow based concealer.
To neutralizes the redness found in blemishes and scars, apply a green concealer first then apply a concealer that matches the skin tone over the top.
It is important when choosing your concealer not to use a shade that is too light, this will draw attention to the area rather than covering it.
Be sure to set the base with a powder makeup for longer lasting coverage.
Get Cheeky with Makeup
Dior makes quality products
Below are the techniques for blush makeup which should be applied depending on the face shape.
Oval Face: Apply blush to the apples of the cheeks and brush up onto cheek bone.
Round Face: Apply blush vertically to thin the face with a small amount on the apples.
Long Face: Apply blush to the apples in a rounded shape to make the face appear wider.
Square Face: Apply blush vertically to make the face appear longer and thinner.
Heart Face: Apply blush horizontally to widen the lower part of the face.
Diamond Face: Apply blush vertically to thin the widest part of the cheek area.
Creating Color Illusions with Makeup
Classic makeup in San Francisco
Corrective contouring makeup helps to create illusions for different face shapes.
We can disguise or enhance what we have by contouring and highlighting certain areas.
Light Colors are used to highlight and enhance certain features.
Dark Colors act as a shade or contour to de-emphasize.
Contour products include foundations and darker matte powders/bronzers.
Light colored powders and shimmers can be used as highlights.
The base color should match the skin tone and the contouring should be 1-2 shades darker than the skin tone.
Highlights should be 1-2 shades lighter than the skin tone.
It’s fun to experiment with different makeup tones and applications for special occasions in San Francisco.
Makeup Trends – Part 3
1970s
Face: Women kept their faces fresh and natural and foundation makeup was not worn as much. Women preferred to have a healthy, glowing tan. Generally when foundation was applied, it was kept looking dewy and no powder would be applied.
Cheeks: Blush was not worn too regularly, muted shimmery colors were applied but overall women wanted a natural bronzed look.
Lips: Frosted/shimmery natural lip colors continued into the 70s.
Eyes: Eyes were also kept very natural. Pearly shimmery eye shadows were applied and women continued to keep lashes glamorous but soft.
Brows: Eyebrows became thick and natural.
1980s
Face: Makeup was generally applied quite heavy in the 80s. Both foundation and powder was generally applied and the more color the better. It was popular for women to match their makeup to their clothing.
Cheeks: Bright Colors were used to accentuate cheek bones, particular bright shades of pinks.
Lips: Vibrant lip colors includes red, hot pinks, oranges, purples, pretty much every color of the rainbow.
Eyes: Eye shades were also very colorful, electric blues, greens and orange shades were particularly popular. Eyes were worn bold, heavy eyeliner and black or colored mascara was applied. Teal and blue eyeliner also added to this look.
Brows: Were worn natural and thick and somewhat bushy.
1990s
Face:Makeup was applied to achieve flawless skin and contoured structure for a more conventional look. Popular shades became earthy with brown undertones.
Cheeks: Bronze, peach often in matte texture.
Lips: Browns, wine and berry shades were mostly worn. Heavy lip liner was often applied. Glossy lips had not faded however matte lips became the main look.
Eyes: Thick black/brown eyeliner was worn on the top lid.
Natural eye shadows were applied, mainly browns and mostly in matte shades.
Brows:Followed the natural brow pattern while attaining a smooth outer brow arch.
Using Base Makeup
Create different looks with face base makeup applications.
Basic looks include:
Matte (dry makeup application):
Achieve a matte look by applying only matte makeup products.
Make sure to apply face powder for a soft suede finish.
Best for fuller coverage and oily skin.
Shimmer (dry application):
For best results, apply a light textured face powder before applying shimmer.
This will hold the shimmer and give an overall better looking effect.
Apply natural shades to highlight brow bones and cheekbones.
A perfect evening application for a night out in San Francisco.
Natural/Fresh:
Use minimal makeup and go easy on the matte textures.
For an natural and fresh look, apply tinted moisturizer, mascara, cream blush and a juicy gloss.
An ideal daytime application and perfect for brides and wedding makeup.
Dewy/Glossy (wet application):
For those who love a dewy look, go big on cream blushers and cream shadows and use a lighter textured foundation.
Lipstick can also be applied to the cheek apples for vibrant dewy color.
Finish off with a heavy duty lip gloss.
A dewy look requires as little powder as possible, therefore not the best for long lasting coverage or oily skin.
Photographers
California
Alex Lim
Tom Seawell
Dan Escobar
Marcy Maloy
Juan Zambrano
Mitch Tobias
Peter Samuels
Rus Anson
Jenna Alcala
Nick Aitken
Cody Rasmussen
Corina Marie Howell
Joel Baldwin
Elena Zhukova
Kristy Ahumada
Ashley Cunningham
Jessica Burke
Duran Rose
Shaun Fenn
Drew Wright
Omar Guerra
Lisa Wiseman
Yifei
Australia
Diana Melfi
Andrew Dunbar
Jodi Nash
Oz Spiniello
Alan Roberts
Lucy Spartalis
Luke Simon
Iain Bond
Makeup Artist Eye Design
The three color eye design, based on 1920s actress Greta Garbo, has been refined by many makeup artists throughout history.
Color One: A light natural color or highlight makeup applied over the entire eye lid up to the brow.
Color Two: A medium color makeup applied to the entire eye lid.
This color can be light or dark but should be a shade that is complimenting to your eye color.
Color Three: This color should be the darkest of the three shades and is applied to the crease to act as a contour.
This color is applied to outline the socket, creating definition and enhancing shape.
Blending the color outward and slightly upward helps with the contouring effect.
Skin Types & Foundation
makeup styles for brides and wedding parties in San Francisco
There are makeup foundations to accommodate all skin types…
Dry Skin: Can be fine, flaky with minimal oily areas, may feel tight and sensitive
Solution: Use a cream base (oil based), stick foundation with moisterising features, tinted moisterizer.
Oily Skin: Skin is coarse in texture and shiny in appearance, mainly in the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin). May have enlarged pores and more prone to blemishes.
Solution: Use a water base foundation (oil free), compact foundation, oil free tinted moisturizer.
Combination Skin: The most common skin type.
Usually skin is dry on the cheeks, outer areas of the face and T-zone produce oil.
Solution: Apply oil free foundation to the T-zone and creme based to the remaining areas.
As a makeup artist from San Francisco and Australia, I’ve had the chance to work with many different skin types and makeup applications for weddings, photographers and model portfolios.
Makeup for Dark Skin Tones & Features
San Francisco Makeup Artist for all skin types and tones
Foundations
Apply makeup foundations that contain the matching undertone to the skin.
Most dark skinned women have a blue undertone.
Using a pink toned foundation made for light skin will make dark skin appear ashy or gray.
Blue undertone bases are best for cool types and orange undertone bases are best for warm skin types.
Concealer
If concealer appears slightly gray on the skin, add a small amount of red or pink.
Powder
Translucent face powders often make dark skin appear grey.
Choose a sheer, tinted powder instead, try mixing colors to achieve the correct tone.
Cheeks
Cool Undertone Skin: Black currant, red currant, fuchsia, purple pink, vivid pink, cranberry.
Warm Undertone Skin: Golden Amber, brick, warm red, dull orange red, rust, golden brown, brown.
Eye Shadow
Apply darker, rich colors as light colours can look powdery.
Lips
Apply base to even out the color and powder before applying lipstick.
Lighten lips by applying concealer/foundation.
Use darker rich colors, such as plums, burgundies, reds, oranges, raspberries and deep roses.
Makeup Artist Products San Francisco
Makeup Artist tools
Using quality makeup products and brushes are vital for best results.
Good products will look and feel better and they are easier and less time consuming to apply.
As a makeup artist, I am proud to use the respected brands listed below.
Christian Dior
Laura Mercier
Nars
Estee Lauder
I certainly prefer particular products of various brands, however I am always on the hunt for new and advanced products, many of which I’ve found in Australia and San Francisco.
Makeup Trends – Part 1
fashion makeup san francisco
Makeup trends have changed dramatically over time!
The modern evolution of makeup started in the early 1900s. Prior to this time, women were using toxic “cosmetics” containing lead and mercury.
Max Factor was the first to introduce motion picture makeup in 1914, followed by lip gloss in 1930 and Pancake Makeup in 1937.
Makeup and fashion trends have shaped women throughout history.
1920s
Face: Cream/ivory powder shades.
Cheeks: Shades of rose, raspberry and orange
Lips: In the middle of the 20s, popular lip shades included plums,deep reds, deep brownish reds and orange.
Towards the end of the decade, women began to wear shades of raspberry,rose and medium reds.
Lipstick was applied as a “Cupids- Bow” to the upper lip.
Eyes: Eye makeup was worn quite dark, edged with black. Eye shades such as grey, turquoise and greens were often applied.
Brows: Brows were drawn on with black/brown ink to create a thin, down sloping brow.
1930s
Face: Foundation Colors worn were Gardenia (white & waxen) and Tea Rose (ivory with a touch of pink). Complimenting powders were light mauve (maybe with a touch of light green) and rich ivory.
From the mid 30s women began wearing ivory with shades of pink, blue and orange cream.
Towards the end of the 30s women began to take a more natural approach by applying more pink undertones.
Cheeks:Early 30s, light pinks were used if any.From mid 30s raspberry shades, yellow reds and purple reds became popular.
Lips: light rose, raspberry tones, chinese red and orange.
Bright red shades became popular later in the decade.
Lipstick was applied as an elongated bow rounded and flared at the corners, also known as the “rosebud mouth”.
Eyes: blue, bright violet, green, brown and orchid were popular.
Brunettes often applied grease paint for a more exotic look. Shimmering shadows were an evening trend, applied from the upper lid to the brow.
Darker shades were applied to the crease of the eye creating depth.
Brows:Brows were plucked off or shaved entirely and then drawn on.
Compliment Your Eyes with Makeup
eye makeup artist san francisco
When applying eye makeup, the technique should be based on the eye shape and coloring.
Below are some techniques that will help to compliment your eyes.
Blue eyes: Apply tones such as coppers, bronzes, peaches and browns.
Brown Eyes: Shades of purple particularly make brown eyes stand out.
Small Eyes: Make small eyes appear larger by applying crease shadow toward the outer corner of the eyes.
Use lighter colors on the lid and highlight the brow bone to open the eye. Line the rims white.
Wide Set Eyes: Make wide set eyes appear closer by applying a crease color to the inner eye. Create an illusion of shade by applying eye liner on top inner rim all the way to the corners.
Deep Set Eyes: Apply a crease color higher on the brow bone to create depth, apply light shades on lid.
Close Set Eyes: Keep the crease color to the outer corner. Apply highlights to the inner corners and extend top liner slightly beyond outer edge.
Round Eyes: Use darker makeup colors for the lid and taper the line from thin to thick at the edges on the top lash line.